Secret Travel Essential for Love Birds

This little heart splitter meant that Eric & I could watch movies & listen to tunes on the plane with only one gadget, effectively doubling our battery life over the course of our summer adventure. I'd never travel without it again. Lovey dovey, but irresistibly cute too. Snag one for your next trip here. What is your secret travel essential?

A Quest for Gorgeous Opal Jewelery

My birthstone is an Opal. This stunning gem comes in an incredible assortment of colors (from the bottom of the ocean blue to the palest seashell pink) and has an ethereal shimmer, but I have rarely seen it featured in a piece of jewelry that I like. They are often made from cobbled together inlays and embellished with dark woods or silly flourishes. Usually one sees white opals set in sterling silver which look washed out and cheap, like bubblegum machine mood rings. Internet searches were futile since I didn't have any descriptors to clarify what I was looking for. I would know it when I saw it.

While in Vienna, I saw some extraordinary examples of Art Nouveau jewelery, including several breathtaking pieces showcasing opals. Now I knew which search terms to enter: antique and Art Nouveau. That search turned up this beauty.

I love everything about this piece (except the $10,000 price tag.) I love the scale of it first and foremost- dainty jewelery is not my thing. I like over-sized, exceptional statement pieces. I love how the stone itself is the showpiece- one giant, unbroken hunk which can catch the light and dazzle. The teardrop shape is artistic and sophisticated- it reminds me of something Georgia O'Keefe would have worn in turquoise. The square cut sapphires and emeralds on either side enhance the design and accent the colors shining from inside the opal itself.


Then while catching up on my pile of summer magazines, I clapped eyes on these showstoppers in Martha Stewart Weddings. There is no price tag featured on either the website or the magazine- price upon request is never a good sign for people on a teacher's budget. Nevertheless, what I love about these earrings is how the opals are the star- not upstaged by other elements. And of course, it doesn't hurt that they are my two favorite colors on earth- blue and green.

What is your birthstone? Do you have a piece of birthstone jewelery you are in love with? From the looks of these picks I'd better start saving immediately if I want an incredible piece of opal jewelery for my 30th birthday the October after next. (Actually, it may have to wait till 50!)

A Guiding Light (house carafe)

We have crash landed back in Hawaii and plunged head first into a sea of craigslist ads and dissapointing apartment showings. This little lighthouse carafe was featured in the giant stack of magazines (and SO much junk mail) that piled up while we were gone. It's inspired me to remember that I will be guided safely ashore and unpack all my nautical themed trinkets on dry land soon enough.

More vacation posts to follow. Thanks for coming along on my adventures.

Visiting Vienna: Bretzel Gwolb for Pretzels, Beer & Eierschwammerl

Just around the corner from our Vienna apartment was another Rick Steves recommendation: The Bretzel Gwolb which he describes as "Tolkeinesque". Since Eric & I are more than a little Hobbit like, (short of stature, lovers of life, books and good eating) we took this as a sign and spent a few afternoons sipping beers here.

Though they seemed oddly reluctant to bring us pretzels, when they did arrive they were wonderful. Hot, chewy and covered with nice coarse salt.

We also tried Eierschwammerl, (we call them chanterelles) which have a very short season and were featured all over town while we were there. I'm not usually a mushroom lover, but I am beginning to suspect I just haven't had many good mushrooms in my life. These were light, woody and perfectly paired with a creamy butter wine sauce, endives and sauteed potatoes.

Le menu du jour was cheerfully chalked up on their green shutters. The homey picnic tables and benches were painted a matching shade of forest green. Window boxes overflowing with herbs made the tiny cobbled courtyard feel like a secret garden. We spent a colder evening in the candle lit interior which feels like a cellar decked out with rustic wraught iron chandeliers, worn wooden tables and red velvet upholstery. Very atmospheric indeed.

What is your favorite restaurant experience abroad?

Visiting Vienna: Tresniewski's How To

Here's how to visit the famous Trzesniewski cafe in Vienna. (Their slogan translates to "unpronounceably good." It's right on the money.)

Go in for a snack around 4 or 5. Select tiny open face sandwiches from the wide variety a the cafeteria style counter. Get a teeny tiny beer to wash it down with. Eric got smoked bacon and egg, mine was sweet pickle relish, a hardboiled egg and lots of paprika.

Find a table inside or stand at the high top tables outside if you've got your dog along. Set to work.

Laugh about your day. Munch. Chit chat. People watch. Relax.

Your work here is done.

What I like about Museums

You walk up the marble steps. You are leaving the plane of every day existence. You are climbing into a special realm that contains the infinite expressions of human potential. Your spirit will be enriched. What is good in you will feast.

You pass through the glass doors and a blast of cool air washes over you. It feels good after the dusty heat of the street in July. The bustle of the street is replaced by silent calm. It settles over you slowly, like a fine silt sinking to the bottom of a pond. You buy a ticket from a fellow all in black, right up to his square glasses. You take the ticket to a white haired man near a red velvet rope. He smiles at you as he tears your ticket.

As you walk through the grand hall, you hear the echo of your footsteps in the immense space. You notice how much museums borrow from cathedrals. Both are sacred spaces. We need space to let our spirits expand to their fullest capacity.

You climb up the vast marble staircase. You are alone on the steps, but the grooves worn in them speak of thousands of feet that have walked here before you. They whisper of footsteps yet to come.

You turn into the gallery. Polished parquet. Gold guilded frames. Benches covered in soft blue velvet. You are invited to be still. To be silent. To consider, without any words.

Just look. Just look. Just look.

When you have had enough, go back to the world.

Meeting Delaney!

We are in MN for a few days before we head back to Hawaii, and I've still got lots to share about Vienna, but I couldn't resist sharing this shot. We were so delighted to meet little Delaney at long last. Brent & Alison are very lucky folks to have such a cheerful, adorable little gal, don't you think?

Visiting Vienna: An Afternoon at the Opera

I want to be the sort of person who loves theater in general and opera in particular, but I have to confess that both leave me cold. Theater going experiences are so variable- sometimes wonderful, but oftentimes I feel lukewarm about the performances, costumes, singing, plot or all of the above. And it's invariably an expensive proposition going to the theater, while comparatively (and in more ways than one), most movies are cheap.

I'd been to see three operas before- all in Eric's company and all in German. I slept through one, but I blame extreme jet lag and no subtitles. In Vienna, I couldn't wait to give it another go since it's The Opera Capital of the World.

Due to a minor ticketing snafu and one very kind box office agent, we ended up sitting in a box for an afternoon performance of Strauss's Die Fledermaus at The Volkstheater for around $17 USD. I felt so queenly walking into that sumptuous little box all done up in thickly padded red velvet chairs, red damask wall paper and pretty crystal light fixtures. (And glad I decided to dress up for a matinee!)

The audience was mostly school children, which surprised us given the sexual innuendo in this opera. However, the objective seemed to be exposing children to a high culture experience rather than getting them to understand the intricacies of plot and double entendres. Even though the wiggled and whispered through the performance, most of these kids will grow up to be Vienese people who can't get enough Opera. In fact, as adults, they will spend summer evenings down at the Rathaus eating Indian curries or Thai noodles on porcelain plates with a big glass of wine or beer on a folding chair, raptly watching opera on a vast outdoor screen. That's what tradition and culture mean to Vienna and it was lovely to see the adults helping to facilitate this life long love affair with culture for their students.

The subtitles and wonderful acting made it easy to follow this Opera which certainly adds enjoyment. The farce kept building to a chaotic and climactic final scene that made us laugh out loud. I may have to give theater a second chance. Have you ever been to an Opera? What did you love? What did you hate?

Goodbye, Harry Potter.

Image from Nadine Jolie

Have you read The Harry Potter Series? I finally read (and listened!) to them for the first time this year and was so moved by the story, which borrows so much from The Hero's Journey. It's about growing up, but also what it takes to conquer your fears, take ownership of your life and the magic that comes out of that. As this is the last movie, I feel as if I am saying goodbye to Harry for good this time and I feel misty about it. We've been watching the movies again and it really is extraordinary to watch these three people grow up on film. They've spent the greater part of their lives playing these characters- I wonder how that shaped the poised young adults they have become? Can you imagine how emotional you would feel letting go of those characters after so much time? No wonder Emma & J.K shed tears at the premiere!

Will you be seeing Deathly Hallows Part II today?

Seven Books that Shaped my Food Philosophy

"Spicy Chinese Soup Recipe" from Lucille's Kitchen

Lately, I've been thinking about my food philosophy. Maybe it's being in Europe where the culture surrounding food is so different. It could also be eating out so much. But I've been trying to get my arms around what I've learned about food over the years. I've still not mastered my urge to indulge, but I've come a long way towards a balance that I am happy with. My weight will probably always fluctuate, but I am not willing to beat myself up about how I look. I'm much more interested celebrating and caring for the body that is my vehicle through the journey of life.

I thought I'd share a few of the books that have helped me develop my thoughts on food and how it functions in my life. I've listed them in the order in which I read them, in hopes that you can see the illuminated path that led me from one book to the next. I hope you'll share your ideas with me in the comments as well.

Indian Lemon Pickles from Lemon Bird

Dr. Atkin's Diet Revolution: This book was the first I'd read that challenged prevailing notions about what I should eat and made me feel as if there was more to the story of food than "fat makes you fat". Atkins didn't work for me because it was too restrictive, but it got me thinking that maybe diet was not a one size fits all proposition. It was also the book that led me to give up "diets" fad and otherwise, forever after. I was looking for an eating lifestyle I could enjoy for the rest of my days.

French Women Don't Get Fat: After Atkins, I realized I am not the sort of person who can skip champagne and pass on birthday cake. (Duh!) This book was just what I was looking for. The premise is that French women manage their waistlines not by deprivation, but by increasing the pleasure they take at table. They enjoy quality instead of quantity. They eat slowly. They identify the flavors that make it delicious. They think about the person who prepared it. They enjoy company at dinner. They talk. They sip wine. They savor that first flavorful mouthful and take time over it. (Try and savor cheap fast food. You'll find it impossible because the quality is missing.) Savor something, and you won't over-indulge because you have truly appreciated it. You don't need more. All of this was a revelation that somehow felt like something I had always known.

The Supper of the Lamb: A Culinary Reflection : My mother recommended this wonderful book and I enjoyed every moment of it. Written by a priest, you might expect something puritanical and didactic. Instead, it was a celebration of bounty, abundance and jubilation in all creation- especially the living food that we take in to nourish our own lives. This book elaborated clearly and beautifully something I'd felt intuitively for a long time- food is much more than fuel for our bodies. It is a way we connect to other people and nourish our spirits, bodies and each other. At least, this is what it can be at it's best. This book too was all about slowing down and taking time to notice what you are enjoying. This creates space so that you can honor yourself, your body and the people who come in contact with you.

My Life in France: Although this book was more memoir than food writing, I loved reading about the travel, adventures, friends, markets, ingredients, shops, pots, pans, letters and intrigues that were the backdrop to Julia Child's extraordinary life in food. This was a woman who was fearless, independent, and creative and understood that good food has the power to bring out the very best in people.

In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto: Here is another book that reinforced notions I already held dear- that the less processed foods you buy and consume, the better off you are. I especially love that he offers guidelines instead of hard and fast rules because this is how life is. I need flexibility and a down to earth, practical approach to food, not tables, charts, graphs and calculators. I'd rather listen to the advice of cooks and farmers who are on intimate terms with the nature of food than someone who has been busy dissecting things in a lab and reformulating them to sit on a supermarket shelf.

"In Season" from Red Cruiser

Women Food and God: An Unexpected Path to Almost Everything: By now you may be noticing a trend in my reading- the spine of my food philosophy, so to speak. I am seeking to build a connection between mind, body and spirit through a sensual approach to the physicality of food. This book reminded me that over eating is often misplaced self-medicating. When I mindlessly eat a whole bag of potato chips, I am trying to soothe something that cannot be soothed with food. The causes are variable; boredom, disappointment, anxiety, exhaustion, frustration, loneliness. But I can bravely choose to look deeper at my own mindless eating, at what I am trying to avoid. This awareness opens a doorway to what is sacred inside myself. Potato chips are a cheap, temporary and unacceptable distraction.

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone: I've written about this excellent book before, but it is a wonderful addition to this list because it offers a tangible connection between all of this food philosophy and the kitchen. Deborah Madison provides a wide variety of techniques and ideas and leaves room for her reader to explore, improvise, taste, smell, look and touch. A more perfect finale, I can't imagine.

Are there any books or philosophies that have guided your life in food? A favorite cookbook? Advice from your mother? The wisdom of experience? I'd love to know about your journey and add material to my reading list.

E is for Eggs Alphabet Plate from Just Noey

Visiting Vienna: Lipizanner Stallions at The Spanish Riding School

Thank goodness I made it to June's very last Lipizzaner Stallion performance at Vienna's Spanish Riding School because this venerable institution closes down for all of July and August.

Image from DQFlix

The art of classical dressage is an old one, originally based on military maneuvers but perfected into something more like dance over centuries of breeding and careful training. I didn't know much about this sport or the school, though I'd heard it described as "ballet for horses". I bought a standing room ticket for 25 Euros and found a spot on the steps against the wall of the arena.

It was the fanciest horse ring I've ever seen in my life. It was commissioned by Emperor Charles IV in 1773 and is certainly fit for a king! The ring is rather narrow, but the hall reaches upward in a graceful arch with elaborate statuary & friezes all along the perimeter. Two massive glittering crystal chandeliers light the arena. After an enlightening introduction in both German and English, the horses and riders pranced out.

The Lipizzaner Stallions themselves are a special breed with Arabian and Spanish blood lines and undergo almost eight years of gentle training before they perform for the crowds in Vienna. They are white, but some still retained the grey mottling of adolescence. You could see that this is a proud and special breed, and the announcer noted they are prized for intelligence, memory and obedience. As they marched along they kept their noses close to their bodies creating a beautiful arch in their necks. Their riders wore brown jackets with gold buttons, white breeches, black boots and old fashioned wool hats that reminded me of Thomas Jefferson. The rows of gold trim on their saddle blankets indicates their position in the school. Three rows is the highest, reserved for the master of the school.

Image from Your Horse

The performance lasted about 90 minutes set entirely to music of Strauss and Mozart. (Fan favorites in their hometown of Vienna!) The highlight of the performance for me was a sort of duet where two horses and riders mirrored each other in a complicated series of pirouettes, circles, leaps and marches in perfect time to the music.

Were you obsessed with horses when you were little? I certainly was! My parents even gave me riding lessons for a few years. I also had a giant collection of Breyer horses. Have you ever seen dressage in person? What did you think?

My Inward Journey with Yoga and Bikram

I haven’t written about my yoga practice here before, even though it has shaped a great deal of my life in Hawaii. Writing about my efforts to connect mind, body and spirit is difficult because it is an internal journey and one begins to sound pretentious or preachy almost immediately. That’s exactly what I am trying to unlearn with yoga. I'd like to try to write about my slow journey with yoga because I am starting to see the first blossoms of growth and perhaps it will encourage you on your path too.

My first yoga class was in college and I enjoyed it immediately as a way to cope with stress. So many of the stretches just felt incredibly good! I remember that I particularly loved certain neck stretches which eased tension in my shoulders. I dropped in on classes intermittently from then on, sometimes doing videos, sometimes joining classes for a few months at a time and then letting it fade away. I never got into the habit of regular practice.

When I arrived in Kona, I attended a Bikram class with a few friends. I’d done “hot yoga” before, but nothing like this. I was floored at the sheer athleticism of the class and the feeling that I’d really gotten a work out. I’d never experienced that in my other yoga classes which were mostly about stress relief and relaxation. With Bikram I sensed a way to build strength, concentration and endurance.

But what I sensed about yoga from the very beginning, was that this was exercise for more than just my body. My spirit and mind were also being trained. In that very first Bikram class, I surprised myself with what I could do. The heat helps your muscles to relax and go farther than you expect them to and I was able to really go for it mentally too.

And then my teacher Mark said- “Your spirit loves it when you take care of your body.” Those words rattled around in my brain for months. It made perfect sense, but it was a total revelation. When you care for your body, it becomes a place that your spirit wants to be. Of course. Exercise had always felt like something to grit my teeth and get through (like penance!) until that moment. Suddenly I realized that it was really about caring for myself, nurturing my spirit. A healthy body makes it easier to be present because your spirit isn’t desperately trying to escape all the time (with food, television, internet rabbit holes etc.).

I didn’t start practicing every day after that class. In fact, I still don’t. But my practice has become more regular. Those words stayed with me and brought me back to class again and again. I’ve seen incredible progress in my practice.

Since Bikram yoga is the same 90 minute series every time, you get to know each posture inside and out and you can feel and see yourself progressing. After a less than a year of two classes a week, I can wrap my palms around the bottom of my feet and put my head on my knees while keeping my knees locked. When I first began I could barely touch my toes with my knees locked. When I lie in savasana, my spine is completely flat against the floor with no gap between the floor and my neck or the arch in my lower back. In the same way I’ve seen progress in my body, I’ve seen progress in my spiritual journey as well. I’ve learned how to better control my thoughts and reactivity. I have learned how to quiet my mind. That journey is a long way from over, but it's nice to know that I am completely capable of remaining calm and centered if I choose to- no matter what the situation around me is. I am learning to be the hub, not the wheel.

This leads me (at last!) to Light on Life by B.K.S. Iyengar. I've just finished reading this excellent book and I am looking forward to sharing what I learned from it in another post.

What kind of exercise works for you? Yoga has become so pervasive, I'm sure most of you have given it a go. What did you think? Did it stir something inside you, or did it feel too hippy dippy? I'd love to know what you think about this topic- we women can be so hard on ourselves in this department and I'm tired of punishment and shame, but I don't believe in an undisciplined do only what feels good approach either.

Visiting Vienna: An Island Picnic & Summer Fair

Vienna sits right along the Blue Danube (though it's really more a muddy grey color) and in the middle is an island formed by a canal. We decided it would be a nice spot for a picnic.

I made a little trio of pretty salami & cheese sandwhiches, piled the plate high with nectarines and cherries and brought along a little blanket. The weather here this summer has been quite unpredictable this summer and when it started drizzling we decided to pack up and stroll towards the other end. (The island is skinny, but quite long!)

We stumbled upon some sort of summer festival- there were all sorts of booths, radio stations, puppet shows, a woodworker, and of course, an Airstream selling crepes! I don't need to remind you how I've fantasized about this sort of thing. Can you imagine roaming the countryside in your crepe mobile, sharing the joys of Nutella with everyone you meet? Delightful.

This lady was selling "Lebkuchen" which Eric tells me means "Life Cakes". It's gingerbread decorated with little love notes and strung onto ribbons so you can hang them as decoration or gobble them up.

I also quite liked how this pretzel man had managed to match his tablecloth, napkins and shirt! Very dapper indeed. Gingham seems just right for the humble pretzel, wouldn't you agree?

Have you been on any picnics this summer? What about street fairs? I love the fluff of bright pink cotton candy or an icy snow cone on a hot summer day.

Visiting Vienna: Cafe Orlando di Castello

One of my favorite food stops in Vienna so far has been Orlando di Castello. This charming little cafe is just two blocks from our apartment.

Aren't their lacy cafe chairs pretty? They remind me of elaborate calligraphy on a fancy wedding invitation.
I think Eggs Benedict is one of my all time favorite dishes. I really must learn how to poach an egg so I can make it at home. This one was perfectly made with a light herb Hollandaise sauce, salty ham and a toasty roll.

I am falling madly in love with Viennese cafe culture- people bring a stack of magazines and books with them, order a coffee (which always comes perfectly made with a tiny glass of water) and while away the afternoon catching up on news and fashion. The waiter never brings the bill until you ask and you can sit for hours. (I start to feel antsy after only an hour or two, in the States I always feel like I need to buy something every few hours if I'm camping out like that.)

This article (which sports far better photographs of the uber hip cafe interior) informs me that the design was inspired by "50 Cent, Queen Victoria and a girl from Tyroll". My thoughts exactly. (Ha!)

These total experiences are what I miss most about an urban lifestyle when we are back in rural Hawaii. Here there is attention paid to food, service, and the atmosphere you are enjoying which elevates the experience and creates additional value. Sometimes these hip places can feel cold and intimidating, but the staff here was so welcoming and friendly that spending the whole morning was blissful.

Are there chic but friendly places to eat where you live? Which is your favorite?

Packing List for Six Weeks in Europe in a Carry on!

Do you enjoy packing for vacation? No surprise, I adore it. Packing for a trip helps me visualize myself in that place. I imagine what I'll be doing (Sipping cappuccino? Strolling through Pompeii? Taking a scooter ride along the sea?) and then what I'd like to be wearing while doing it. I like to try to blend with the locals too, and in Europe that means looking a little more polished than usual.

For this trip across Europe, we have many stops and flights, so I decided to pack in a carry on. I've used a backpack for long trips before but they don't jive with the way I travel. A small rolling suitcase is better for me for so many reasons- you have easier to access when packing horizontally instead of vertically and I'd rather wheel something behind me (like a chic air hostess!) than haul it on my hunched over back (like a peasant woman taking potatoes to market).

My inspiration for accomplishing this feat was Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. For most of the film, she's wearing only the clothes on her back the day she runs off. It's a simple cotton blouse, a circle skirt, a tiny scarf, a pair of kitten heels and one great haircut. Watch the movie again and note all the ways she changes it up.

Image from Thoughts on Film

In her biography, someone on the set of that film said she did the same thing in real life- with only three simple pieces, she could make a thousand different looks. Scarf on head, scarf round neck, scarf tossed over shoulders, scarf as belt. (Lesson learned. Scarves are your secret weapon!) Shirt tied at waist, tucked in, sleeves rolled up, collar down, collar flipped and so on and so forth. (Who knows what one can really do to a skirt or pants?)

If she could do it, so could I. (Okay, not in three pieces, but baby steps!) I packed items that don't rumple or wrinkle easily and could serve dual purposes. They also had to be easy to wash and hang in a hotel sink if need be. (I find chiffon & microfibers are the best for this!)

Here is my packing list for this trip:

Tops: One striped shirt (It's Europe after all!), Coral Pink Cardigan, Floral Print Cardigan (don't you miss Isaac Mizrahi for Target?) Blue, Pink & Black Tank top (for overtime as workout gear, pjs & layering pieces!)
Bottoms: Skinny Blue Jeans, Khaki Skirt

Dresses: Denim sheath dress- can double as skirt, Black & White polka dot chiffon dress- can double as a top if you are really determined to stuff it into jeans!


Accessories: Assorted Baubles, Black & White Skinny Belts, Red & Blush silk flower pins, Rainbow Striped, Floral Print and Blue Ombre Silk Scarves

Shoes: Black Ballet Flats, Black Heels, White Sandals, The Requisite-But-Irredeemably-Ugly-Tennis-Shoes-That-Immediately-Brand-You-"Tourist!" I'm glad I had them, especially on our day trip to Bratislava.

Misc: 2 pairs yoga shorts for Bikram class (doubling as pjs), 2 pairs sports bras, 1 swimsuit (as yet, only item remaining unused!), bras & undies & pretty camisole romper pjs Not pictured: 1 hot yoga towel, toiletries, Foldable tote bag, Fancy Camera, Passport

Things I wish I'd brought:

Pair of sweatpants for lounging around in after a long day of hoofing it from sight to sight. A jacket was a major oversight- my white denim jacket would have been ideal, but a blazer would have worked too. The girls here are all wearing theirs a bit over-sized with the sleeves rolled up nonchalantly. I love it. A sun hat was especially missed in Rome.

One Blonde Girl mentioned that a carry on leaves me no room for acquisitions. Never fear! This light list actually left me a bit of wiggle room in my luggage and some books I've ditched along the way also cleared out space. I'll share my purchases in another post.

What are your go to pieces when you travel?