Visiting Vienna: Bretzel Gwolb for Pretzels, Beer & Eierschwammerl

Just around the corner from our Vienna apartment was another Rick Steves recommendation: The Bretzel Gwolb which he describes as "Tolkeinesque". Since Eric & I are more than a little Hobbit like, (short of stature, lovers of life, books and good eating) we took this as a sign and spent a few afternoons sipping beers here.

Though they seemed oddly reluctant to bring us pretzels, when they did arrive they were wonderful. Hot, chewy and covered with nice coarse salt.

We also tried Eierschwammerl, (we call them chanterelles) which have a very short season and were featured all over town while we were there. I'm not usually a mushroom lover, but I am beginning to suspect I just haven't had many good mushrooms in my life. These were light, woody and perfectly paired with a creamy butter wine sauce, endives and sauteed potatoes.

Le menu du jour was cheerfully chalked up on their green shutters. The homey picnic tables and benches were painted a matching shade of forest green. Window boxes overflowing with herbs made the tiny cobbled courtyard feel like a secret garden. We spent a colder evening in the candle lit interior which feels like a cellar decked out with rustic wraught iron chandeliers, worn wooden tables and red velvet upholstery. Very atmospheric indeed.

What is your favorite restaurant experience abroad?

Visiting Vienna: Tresniewski's How To

Here's how to visit the famous Trzesniewski cafe in Vienna. (Their slogan translates to "unpronounceably good." It's right on the money.)

Go in for a snack around 4 or 5. Select tiny open face sandwiches from the wide variety a the cafeteria style counter. Get a teeny tiny beer to wash it down with. Eric got smoked bacon and egg, mine was sweet pickle relish, a hardboiled egg and lots of paprika.

Find a table inside or stand at the high top tables outside if you've got your dog along. Set to work.

Laugh about your day. Munch. Chit chat. People watch. Relax.

Your work here is done.