Eat Like a Local on the Big Island: The Strawberry Patch

I get so many nice emails from all of you asking where we locals go on the Big Island of Hawaii, so I thought I'd start sharing my favorite restaurants. I want to make sure none of you come visiting and end up paying $15 for a mediocre hamburger. (That's the opposite of Aloha!) Added bonus? I get an excuse to try every place in town.

So, in that spirit, I present my new series "Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii!" My four criteria are food quality, ambiance, service and value. I thought I'd kick things off with a charming new bistro called The Strawberry Patch.

This sister owned restaurant is outside of Kona on the way to Kealakekua Bay (perfect since you'll want to go snorkeling with dolphins there!) It's located in a charming little building surrounded by coffee farms with a patio that (unfortunately) faces a busy road. (My tap dance class meets at The Dancing Tree right next door too!) They have done a great job cheering it up with a plethora of potted plants, succulents, urns and beautiful cloches. There are also lots of herbs and while we were there, the cook came out to snip some fresh basil for our lunch orders!

Eric had the Margareta pizza which he deemed light, crisp and delicious.

I had the Picasso Panini. It was fresh and clean tasting and the red peppers were the perfect accompaniment to the pesto and turkey. (And I'm always a sucker for potato chips and a nice pickle spear!)

I also loved the country touch of iced tea served in jelly jar glasses and wildflower arrangements in a collection of vintage milk glass containers. All told, I think the Strawberry Patch deserves 3.5 stars. It has wonderful food, thoughtful, friendly service, great value and aside from the busy highway zooming past the outdoor seating, charming ambiance as well. I definitely recommend it when you visit the Big Island!

Have you tried any great new restaurants lately?

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Hawaiian Vanilla Company

Eric's parents were here on the Big Island to help us celebrate the big 3-0 this year and I knew I wanted to plan a special outing. I'd heard great things about The Hawaiian Vanilla Company, so I booked a reservation for their afternoon luncheon and tour.

Our afternoon began with a vanilla themed lunch. Iced tea and lemonade were generously laced with teeny tiny black specs of real vanilla seeds and served in mason jars for a homey touch.

Next up was a chicken sandwich with a vanilla seed bun, barbeque aioli made with cayenne, paprika, curry and you guessed it: vanilla! The chicken was incredibly tender and juicy and the homemade bread was still warm from the oven.

What dessert showcases real vanilla better than ice cream? It was topped with a delicious lilikoi sauce, and the tartness of the lilikoi flavor was in perfect contrast to the cool, creamy, sweetness of the ice cream. Can you see the vanilla seeds?

After lunch, we toured the farm to learn about the time consuming art of growing real vanilla. Vanilla comes from an orchid- the only orchid species in the world that produces a usable fruit. It takes four years for a plant to produce pods, and the process is slow and labor intensive. Each flower must be hand pollinated during a one week blooming season, which goes a long way towards explaining why real vanilla beans are so expensive. This plant is just a baby at only two years old. It will creep slowly up these poles and begin to create its first blooms in two more years.

Our tour was brief due to rain, but we enjoyed learning more about this exotic plant, first discovered by the Mayans and cultivated continuously ever since. (Chocolate AND Vanilla? Those guys had some precious knowledge, wouldn't you say?) It was a great way to celebrate Eric's birthday, (he has a secret fascination with spices and farms!) and if you are paying a visit to the Big Island of Hawaii, I would highly recommend this for an afternoon adventure in the rural mountain country of our island.

Have you ever tried a culinary tour before? I can't wait to do it again.

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island: The Coffee Shack

The Coffee Shack is one of those places that no visit to the Big Island is complete without. Every guest we've had ends up having at least one meal here. The Coffee Shack is a bit outside of Kona, but it's right on the way to Honaunau and Kealakekua, gorgeous places you'll want to visit and snorkel anyway. They do all their own baking on premesis, including several varieties of incredible breads, a selection of decadent pies and cheesecakes and muffins.

It's directly off the highway and parking can be an issue. Make sure you don't park in front of the neighbors' gate- it's a sure way to get towed. My four criteria for Big Island Restaurants are food quality, ambiance, service and value. This place gets four stars no question.

The food quality here is wonderful. Everything is made with care and attention to detail and you can taste it. They use local sources whenever possible. Eric and I love to split their Eggs Benedict- it's plenty for two small folks like us! The holindaise is sublime- light, airy and with a lemony twang all poured over the most lovingly poached eggs you've ever tasted. They often do a version with a fresh catch of the day and you can't beat the flavor and texture of fish straight from the ocean and on to your plate.

When my Mom visited, I took her down to Honaunau for a bit of snorkeling and dolphin watching and we stopped off for lunch afterwards. I had a delightful Ham and Turkey sandwich (halfway gone before I remembered to snap a pic for y'all!) That freshly baked bread MADE the thing.

Mum had the Papaya Special. I used to think I didn't care for papaya, and then I moved to Hawaii. I had just never had one properly ripened. This one is topped with lime, yogurt and toasted coconut. Heaven.

This place also gets a star for ambiance. Though humble from the outside, (it's not called "Shack" for nothing!) the view is spectacular- every seat comes with a sparkling blue view of Kealakekua bay and acres of world famous Kona Coffee plantations. There is also a breathtakingly tall Haas Avacado tree- Eric and I always speculate on how they manage to harvest it's perfect dark green fruits from so far below. We can't really imagine it but it's too awful to think all those perfect avocados go to waste.

The staff also leave little tins of jam out for the ubiquitous Day Geckos to feast on. It certainly makes a good photo op, even though these fellows are non-native species. You'll have plenty of opportunities to make insurance salesman jokes.

The Coffee Shack earns another star for service. There are no world wearied waitresses here. Each member of the staff brings kindness and enthusiasm to her work- something you don't see much in downtown Kona. I always enjoy their attentive and genuine service.

And of course, all of those stars add up to another star for value. This is one place I never hesitate to send my guests to visit, and the only one I'll beg for a chance to tag along!

What is your favorite restaurant in your neck of the woods?

Stay Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Massage and Yoga with Yuki Agoot

Yuki teaches yoga and offers massage services at her beautiful studio in Kailua Kona on The Big Island.

In Shenzhen, there was a culture of massage for health, and it was so affordable that I adopted a monthly massage habit. To keep it affordable when I came back stateside, I started frequenting massage schools, where you can usually get an hour long student massage for around $40.

Then, a friend introduced me to the lovely Yuki Agoot, who was running a special promotion for teachers. I had never had a regular masseuse before, and it completely transformed the experience for me. Suddenly, my massage experience was consistent and I knew what to expect during each visit. Yuki took the time to ask about my body, what areas needed work and what my stress level was like. Her expertise became obvious to me when I arrived with a lingering cold and she gave special attention to releasing muscles around my shoulder blades, lungs and throat that completely cleared my lymphatic system. I could actually feel the drainage happening and could breathe freely for the first time in weeks.

Yuki's massage methods are also informed by her interest in yoga, which made me curious to try her alignment yoga classes. Listening to her describe mountain pose deepened my understanding of a simple standing posture that I thought I "knew" already. She brought our attention to the four different points of the foot, and encouraged us to balance our weight across each of those points equally while imagining becoming one with the earth beneath you. Try it and see what it does for your awareness and presence in this moment.

Yuki has been my masseuse for over two years now, but more than that, she has come to be a kind of spiritual mentor. She is a living, breathing example of a grounded, centered, open hearted human who gives something back to the world around her.

If you live on Big Island, or are here for vacation, go see her. Her studio is located near Costco above Ceviche Dave's. Inside, there are beautiful dark hardwood floors and a sweeping view of the ocean. Pilates machines and balance balls line the walls. Her private massage space is softly lit, with massage certificates in bamboo frames on one wall, and full color anatomy illustrations on the other. Yuki asks how your body is, and you have a chance to talk about what you would like from the experience. She slips out so you can undress and get on the fancy electric table, which she adjusts depending on what part of your body she is working on. The music is soft and thougtful- never cheesy, just soothing. Yuki's massage is thorough with special attention to tense areas that resist movement. I usually drift in and out, and when it's time to get off the table, I arise feeling revived for whatever is next in my life.

Thanks for all the help staying in the moment,Yuki. Namaste!

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Ultimate Burger

Did you know that the largest cattle ranch in the United States is located in Hawaii? Thousands of head of cattle are raised right here on the mountains of The Big Island. But even though these cows start out eating fresh green grass and roaming hills with premium ocean views, more than 90% of these animals are shipped to the mainland to be fattened on feedlot corn before their final trip to the slaughterhouse. It's a shame given the premium price free-range, grass-fed beef commands, (and the way animals are treated in these lots. Did you see Food Inc.?) but this island doesn't have the proper meat processing facilities, and the local market is not yet large enough to support the industry.

Ultimate Burger may be the restaurant to help change that. This local burger joint serves up 100% locally raised, grass-fed beef. You can definitely taste the difference in the freshness of the meat. The texture is crumbly and tender- not tough and greasy like other fast food burgers. These burgers taste like red meat should taste- irony, rich, but also clean and healthy.

You can choose from a wide array of toppings for your burger; from bleu cheese crumbles to caramelized onions and pineapple slices, something will definitely hit the spot. And of course, such a beautiful burger needs a worthy bun. These are buttery, freshly baked and lightly toasted to really bring out the best in all the ingredients.

The fries are the real reason I keep going back however. Local potatoes are cut into superfine shoestrings, fried into the perfect marriage between crisp and squishy and then laced with generous sprinklings of fresh thyme, pepper, garlic and salt. They are served with an aioli dipping sauce (sour cream and cayenne pepper is my guess) that is totally decadent. I've found myself ordering fries and some of their perfectly tart, never overly sweet lemonade and nothing else on more than one occasion. (Ask for their punch card- after 10 orders of fries you get one free! If you're just visiting, start one anyway and send it my way. I guarantee it won't go to waste.)

What's the best burger joint in your neighborhood? What makes it so delicious?

One Day in Macau (many days later...)

While Greg was here to visit, Eric and I had to leave the country briefly in order to validate our multiple entry visas. We all wanted to go on a daytrip, and since Greg had already visited Hong Kong, we decided to head to Macau.

Macau is an island that was colonized by the Portuguese and the resulting culture on the island is an odd hybrid of Chinese and Roman, Spanish, and Portuguese customs. In 1999, it was handed back to China shortly after the British returned Hong Kong. In its current incarnation, developers are keen to make Macau the Las Vegas of China, opening it to the coming hordes of newly minted middle class Chinese tourists. Billions of dollars are being spent here trying to make that a reality. Wynn Casinos are reportedly spending big bucks and Macau recently opened the largest casino in the world.

We took a one hour ferry ride across the horribly dirty looking bay from Shenzhen to Macau. Upon stepping out onto the black and white cobbled streets, we were greeted by a bald man in shabby clothes who seemed to be in serious agony defecating in a corner. Not the most welcoming first impression.

We boldly pressed on and came to a jewelry district of sorts. The windows were filled with glittering gold figurines made from the intensely yellow high karat gold that Chinese people favor. Some were boats, some dragons, some pigs (this is the year of the pig, also an especially fortunate year in which to be born, which explains the unusually high proportion of pregnant women we have seen since arriving). These figures are thought to bring luck and wealth into your home when placed in accordance with the rules of feng shui. We’ve also seen elaborate boats fashioned out of currency, which I’ve been told have the same properties, lending new meaning to the phrase “Your ship has come in.”

We wandered around admiring the black and white mosaics in the cobbled streets and the colonial buildings painted in delicate gelato inspired pastels. There was the usual throng of world wide chains, we stopped for a Hagan Daas and noted the Body Shop and Levi jeans outlet. Because Macau is notably lacking in skyscrapers, the streets have a much more European flavor than either Hong Kong or Shenzhen.

We made our way to the Ruins of Saint Paul’s cathedral, which was once the largest Catholic Church in Asia. Only the façade remains, the rest was destroyed in a fire in the late 1800’s. But even the façade paid homage to the strange confluence of influences on this little island. It boasts a lotus flower, the Virgin Mary and an eight headed hydra. Talk about fusion.

We also visited the Macau Museum which was really well done, a gift from the Portuguese to the Chinese before the island was returned. It was filled with objects from Macau’s colonial history and complete with a street recreated from the 20’s.

We had a long lovely lunch at La Lorca, an excellent Macanese restaurant where we had a pitcher of sangria, seafood paella, chicken curry and garlic roasted whitefish and some samosas to really ensure that we would leave with our bellies hanging over our belts. We decided to walk off our lunch a bit, and just across the street was a little temple bustling with visitors.

One thing that strikes me about the temples we’ve visited so far is the carnival atmosphere inside. There is none of that hallowed reverence we reserve for religious spaces in the west. Inside the gates, salesmen bellow at you to buy their incense and lucky charms for your dashboard or shrine. Fortune tellers sit in lines with signs describing their specialties. People clog the entry ways waving incense and kowtowing.

My impression is that most people don’t visit the temple regularly, there don’t seem to be “services” per say. Instead, you visit the temple when in need of good luck or on auspicious occasions. Overall, it is a different relationship with god in general. I couldn’t help but think of that passage in the bible where Jesus throws all the hawkers out of the temple in disgust (one of the few times in the bible where he gets truly angry) Yet another example of how many things are cultural rather than archetypal.

From there, we hopped in a taxi to see the casinos, and what a sight they were. Inside the new Lisboa casino, we were greeted by miles of marble, a massive chandelier and rows upon rows of glittering crystals strung from the ceiling. It was all very glamorous, and way too much. It reminded me of that scene in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes when a doddering old millionaire lasciviously points out to Marilyn Monroe that the piece of jewelry she is wearing as a necklace is actually a tiara. Unflustered, she places it atop her head and coos “Oh, I just love finding new places to put diamonds!”

It will be interesting to see how this little island reinvents itself in the next ten and twenty years. I know we had a lovely visit and I’m looking forward to another day trip sometime soon.

Jack Johnson's Kokua Concert on The Big Island

Photo via Waikiki  Visitor by Emmet Malloy

Last night we enjoyed a rare treat on the Big Island; an first class concert. Each year Jack Johnson puts on a concert & tour to raise money for his Kokua Hawaii foundation, which is dedicated to educating kids about environmental stewardship. 

It was a long three hour wait in a hot parking lot to get those tickets, a long drive, a cold wait to get in the doors and a late night getting home and to bed last night, but it was all worth it. My body was tired, but my spirit was bathed clean in the calm, quiet beauty of these simple, thoughtful songs. They have that casual, sung round the campfire feeling that I love. It made me realize how much I miss having live music in my life, and that like so many other things this island has forced me to learn, I need to start doing more of it myself. 

It was pretty special to see an intimate performance from a guy who can sell out stadiums, and support a great cause at the same time. He was very modest and obviously quite practiced at deflecting waves of sexual tension from a very enamored female audience. What I've loved most about his music through the years is the way he writes about being in love with his wife of more than 18 years, and how strong it still seems to be. 

This song was a new one to me, and before he played it, he described a trip he and his wife took in a V.W Bus through the South of France when they were first married. I couldn't help feeling that it told a little of my story with Eric as I listened. 

Buy it here: What You Thought You Need

I can't give you everything you want
But I could give you what you thought you need.
A map to keep beneath your seat, you've been to me in time I'll get you there.
I fold it up so we don't find our way back soon, nobody knows we're here.

We can park the van and walk to town
Find the cheapest bottle of wine that we could find
And talk about the road behind how getting lost is not a waste of time.

The water moor will take us home in the moment we will sing as the forest sleeps.

Well it's all for the sake of arriving with you
Well it's all .. for the sake of arriving with you

Well, I will make the table into a bed
The candle is burning down its time to rest.
I can't take back things already gone, but I could give you promises for keeps.

And I would only take them back if they become your own and you give them to me .

And it's all for the sake of arriving with you.
Well it's all for the sake of arriving with you.

We could make this into anything
We could make this into more than words we speak.
This could make us into anything
It could make us grow and become what we'll be.

Mmmmmm...
How and we really know
It's just like it feels.

Lava Hunting on The Big Island of Hawaii

Over Christmas break, Eric and I took a trip to the other side of our island to check out Volcano National Park. The park itself was quite crowded (the holidays are a busy time for tourism in Hawaii). We drove around the park, and hiked a bit, but weren't able to spot any lava. The next day we stumbled upon the lava fields at Kalapana while trying to find a black sand beach. To our surprise and delight, there was fresh lava flowing!


It was absolutely mesmerizing to watch this molten rock meandering down the cracks and crevices left by earlier floes.

Curious, Eric tossed some dried twigs in the lava's path. Of course it ignited immediately- the lava is around 1400 degrees. You could feel the heat of it radiating on your face and hands even from ten feet away. The air was shimmering with hot air and gasses.

Eric loved this. We stared at it for ages.

The lava cools into beautiful patterns and the minerals rise to the surface of the rock making it sparkle and shine. These minerals must erode away quickly because I've never noticed so much shine in the lava rock where we live in Kona.

This was a great adventure that I would highly recommend to visitors to the Big Island. Have you ever visited Hawaii? What was the most memorable part of your visit?

Stay Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Island Spirit Spa

Island Spirit Spa in Kealakekua on the Big Island of Hawaii is whole heartedly dedicated to all natural botanical remedies. In fact, Mandi, the ethstetician, goes so far as to say, "If you can't put it in your mouth, you shouldn't put it on your skin." She points out that your skin absorbs chemicals and sends them straight into the bloodstream just as if we were eating them.

My friend Lisa and I recently enjoyed a very decadent pedicure there. The all herbal experience is starkly different from what you get at the typical nail salon. Where you are accustomed to strong chemical smells, florescent lights and aggressive callous removal with all sorts of medical looking instruments, this was all about gentleness, the subtle scents of real plant products and a calm, soothing atmosphere. Mandi warns that the results are different too, but also points out they are more sustainable because they work with your body, instead of fighting against it. We were willing to give it a go.

The treatment begins with a salt and mustard foot soak. Mandi carefully explained what each of the herbs does and why she's chosen them specifically for you.

Freshly squeezed guava juice doesn't hurt either! We nibbled away the nuts before I could snap a picture.

Beautiful leaves and coffee berries plucked from the jungle just outside the door made us feel like Hawaiian princesses.
A sugar scrub and massage help exfoliate and rejuvenate tired feet.

Another of Mandi's special blends. She also offers workshops where you can learn how to create spa quality treatments with the things you have in your cupboards and garden.

Here we are afterward, thoroughly pampered and relaxed! I am looking forward to my next splurge at this lovely spa, and I've already begun experimenting with making my own beauty concoctions at home.

Do you have a favorite spa splurge?

Stay Like a Local on The Big Island of Hawaii at Veltris' Ohana!

When Eric & I finally arrived back in Hawaii after our European Summer, we ended up crashing with our dear friends Dan & Lisa. Not knowing how long our house hunt would take, we decided to get a short term vacation rental so we wouldn't cramp their style for more than a few days. Eric scoured Craigslist to find something clean, affordable and centrally located and found Sharon & Frank Veltris' Ohana. It was everything we needed for a home base while we looked, but I think it would be a lovely place for a vacation too.

It was clean, tastefully decorated, and well appointed with a living area, giant closet, partial kitchen (a stove, grill, mini fridge & micro oven)...

A lovely view from the spacious wraparound lanai where we enjoyed watching the sunset each evening...



And a two person jacuzzi tub complete with seascape mural & candles. So nice to soak with a glass of wine after looking at dismal studio apartments all day!

King size bed & cable T.V too- all for $40 a night? I had to tell all of you about it so you can come and see what life in Hawaii is like! You will need a car at this location in the hills above the elementary school, but you'd need one anyway to see all The Big Island has to offer. Sharon & Frank were so friendly and laid back- they made us feel right at home as we hunted for the perfect place. That's real Aloha. Please contact Sharon if you are planning a vacation on The Big Island. Get in touch with her at threespeakATaolDOTcom

Mahalo Veltris!

Halape in Volcano National Park: Stay Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawai'i

Camping is a past time I am reluctant about. My grandparents in Minnesota are enthusiastic campers who plan extended trips into the pristine Boundary Waters as precisely as any military invasion with detailed menu plans, and sleeping bags rolled down to the size of canned cinnamon buns. They have often waxed rhapsodic about it's joys: The Fresh Air! The Crystal Clear Waters! The Wildlife! The Birds Singing! All of these charms are undeniable. Nothing puts you in a position to appreciate nature like pitching a tent.

Our friends Dan and Lisa are campers of a more relaxed variety and have invited us to join them on more than one occasion for what Lisa calls "Car Camping" which means you simply drive up to the campsite and start drinking and toasting s'mores. While I appreciate the simplicity of this approach, I usually prefer to just get back in my car and sleep in my nice soft bed. We said no many times.

For Spring Break, Lisa proposed a trip down to Halape in Volcano National Park. Here was my chance to try camping for real, in a place without cold, snakes, bears or mosquitoes. I liked the idea of hiking in with provisions on your back to see a place untrammeled by man- like an oasis in the desert. Here was a place I couldn't go or see without camping- it was simply too far and too remote. That appealed to me. We said yes at last.

I borrowed gear from Kristin, bought what she didn't have at a sporting goods store (camping equipment is expensive!) and filled two packs with things I would never normally purchase: bug spray, tuna fish in a pouch, trail mix, water purification tablets and instant coffee.

It seems to me that great food and camping don't mix. You have to rely on things that are dehydrated or canned and can be warmed over an open flame. I confess, there is part of me that enjoys the fantasy of cooking like a cowboy. I just don't enjoy being plunged into the reality of eating like one.

On the appointed day, Eric had come down with the flu. He didn't want to cancel after all the preparations and excitement, so we dosed him with Dayquil and left the house at 4:30a.m to pick up our friends. The idea was to arrive at the permit office first thing. We drove the dark, winding roads with the two round eyes of the Jeep lighting the way, sipping coffee and fantasizing about transforming ourselves into wilderness warriors in a single weekend.

It's a 7.5 mile hike, down from mountain to sea level. In my mind 7.5 miles was totally doable, but I was picturing 7.5 miles of paved trail. Instead, it was 7.5 miles of untamed lava rock in the baking midday sun, the way marked by pyramids of black rocks called kearns. I don't know how Eric managed it in his feverish state. Dan's hiking boots started to peel apart in the heat and we resorted to keeping them together with the elastic from Lisa's sleeping roll. It was exhausting.

After a hard day of hiking with a massive pack of provisions on your back, and blisters on each and every toe, what you most need and want is a long hot bath and a nice soft bed. Neither one are options when camping. Instead, you unfurl a little mat across the rocky ground and collapse beneath a stifling sleeping bag for a night of fitful, dreamless sleep. (Has anyone else noticed that tents are either way too hot or way too cold?)

In the morning though, I was struck by the sublime beauty of the place we found ourselves. It was shockingly quiet- the only sound the wind whipping through the scrubby plants and palm leaves. The whole place felt full of that holy silence that our convenient, modern lives leave no room for. I felt as if we were on a deserted island as we all lay reading quietly. I wondered how that kind of sustained quiet could transform your life.

The next day, we hiked out again. Of course, going up the mountain is more difficult than coming down it and we were all pushed to our limit once again. We stopped for lunch at Hana Hou on the way home and I've never been so happy to see a loco moco in my life. I guess that is another plus for camping- the way it makes you appreciate how easy you have it the rest of the time.

Camping will probably never be something I suggest on my own. However, when people we love offer to take us on an excursion into the wilderness, I'll find it hard to say no to the adventure of the thing.

P.S) This sarong was unquestionably the best item I brought along on the trip. It served as a beach cover up, towel, sun-shield, shawl, scarf and turban. Next time I'd bring less clothes thanks to this little piece of fabric. Are you a camper? What are your must haves on the trail?

Yep, I'm another Tourist in Love with New York City.

New York City. Craning your neck to catch a glimpse of the Chrysler Building glittering in the sun. Bagels beaded with poppy seeds. The blast of cool air that sends your skirt hem skywards as you head into the subway. Even the peeling paint and rats seem romantic; so perfectly filthily punk rock. There is a dashingly handsome fellow with a flat top haircut, houndstooth coat, chambray shirt, perfectly folded pocket square and a pretty little paper corsage in his buttonhole. The air heavy with the smell of salty meat and garlic wafting off the grills of the kebaab vendors. 

The first time I visited New York, I felt intimidated. I'd heard that New Yorkers were rude and exasperated with tourists. It all felt so huge, I couldn't help but get lost and feel overwhelmed. On my second visit however, I had been in Uganda and Kenya for half a year, and New York felt so utterly and inconceivably American. (Remember the roller rink?) Instead of feeling overwhelming, it immediately felt like a summation of all our ideals as a nation, good and bad. I relaxed and felt at home. And this time, the city felt like an explosion of creative energy, filled with a vibrancy, a zest for life that didn't feel rude or aggressive at all, just joyous. 

What travel really reveals is simply your inner state of mind. If you feel defensive, nervous and shy, all these feelings will be confirmed. If you feel open and enthusiastic, the place you are visiting will rise up to meet you with those same qualities. This is a lesson I am learning over and over; how to cultivate an inner state that allows room for surprise, connection, adventure and freedom. 

 I had fun hopping on the Staten Island Ferry, which is totally free and buzzes right past the Statue of Liberty! I munched on some popcorn and watched the boats, birds and waves. 

Later, I splurged on a Turf Lobster Roll near the Highline from two charming dudes in a vintage airstream. They chatted with me about renovating this trailer, which was gutted and driven to New York from Arizona as an empty hull. They also suggested I check out Jalopy for an evening of folk music. (It was even more charming in person.) 

 I sat there savoring the joys of lobster, mayo and cayenne pepper on a toasty bun, basking in the afternoon light and feeling elated by the idea that everyone's journey is a winding one. There is no hurrying the lessons your life is teaching you.

Later I wandered off the hot dusty street, up the mountain of stairs up to the cool, soaring, marbled elegance of the Metropolitain Museum of Art. I took a winding path past Joan of Arc and through the Italian Renaissance, an elevator rides and then a furtive set of stairs up to the panoramic view of the city from the Met's rooftop bar. It all felt wonderfully secret (rather like in The Mixed up Files of Mrs. Basil E Frankenweiler)  until I saw the massive line for beer and wine. I enjoyed a drink with my friend Gwen. (Can you believe two girls from The Big Island of Hawaii just happened to be in the same city during the same week?)

As the sun went down and they hustled us all back onto the elevators, and out into the cool night air, I had to admit, I'm another tourist who has fallen hard for New York City.