Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Buns in the Sun Bakery

If you are looking for a bakery to knock your socks off with extraordinary espresso and flaky, melt in your mouth, lighter than air pastries, keep looking (and let me know where in Kona you found it!) If you are looking for a quick, inexpensive breakfast in Kona, stop in at Buns in the Sun. This little family owned place is convenient, reasonably priced, and has a name that makes me think of sunburned tourist butts, which is always good for a smile. The bagels are solidly good, though the pastries always look a little heavy and greasy. (It's not easy keeping things light in this salty sea air!)

When we go, I like the Super Bagel, loaded with lox, capers, cream cheese and red onions. It's just the right amount of food and the salty twang of the capers is perfect with the sweetness of the lox and the fluffy cream cheese.

Sit outside on the heavy wrought iron furniture, sip a little weak Kona Coffee and plan out your day in Paradise. Your breakfast was less than $8, the service was cheery and you've got a beautiful day ahead of you!

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Sam Choy's

Sam Choy's re-opened with great hubbub here in Kona. It is hard to find parking and the place is packed constantly. For a little town like ours, a new restaurant is big news. Eric and I have tried Sam Choy's twice, once for lunch and more recently for breakfast. It has sublime views of the ocean- it's hard to believe this building used to be a Wendy's! 

The patio is the place to be, especially now that they've added an awning for shade. From here you can watch for whales and sneak a peak at their herb garden. This restaurant is committed to using sustainable local ingredients and we had fun watching a sous chef hacking off an armload of chives for the kitchen.

The breakfast menu is small, but there are some delicious local options. I went with the catch of the day, which happened to be Opah. If I were really local, I would have gone with rice instead of potatoes. The onions in the hash had not been cooked nearly long enough for my liking, but the fish was excellent, firm and light, as was the guava jam for my toast. For an $11 breakfast, I'd say we did all right. 

The other refreshing thing about Sam Choy's is the friendly service, which I'm sorry to say is often sadly lacking in Kona area restaurants. Too many waitresses and tourists busy jading each other perhaps? Not so at Sam's. Our waitress was a gem, keeping our coffee filled and conversation flowing.  We'll be back at Sam's for a little fresh fish and talk story very soon. 

Pau: Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii

Living in Kona means getting stuck in restaurant ruts- the options get exhausted quickly and we find ourselves cooking in constantly because we can do it better (and cheaper!) at home ourselves. We found ourselves in Waimea for the afternoon recently and had fun checking out Pau, a charming new lunch spot.

Waimea is about 45 minutes from where we live, which keeps us from popping over as much as we should. I've resolved to do more exploring there. You can hardly believe you are still in Hawaii when you visit the lush green mountains that feel more like Ireland. It rains often and low hanging fog creates a haunting atmosphere as you drive by red barns and horses munching in tall grasses dotted with wildflowers.

At Pau, the specialty is pizza, but we enjoyed a simple chicken sandwich and salad with crispy candied walnuts, sliced apples and blue cheese, all locally sourced. The sandwich was moist and the house made foccacia was perfectly light and toasty. I loved the relaxed but polished atmosphere and the food was well made and reasonably priced.

The coconut cream pie had been sitting in the cooler a bit too long- the crust not really as crisp as it could have been, and the filling not as richly coconut-y as one might hope, but all told, I would absolutely recommend a stop to this little neighborhood haunt.

What do you look for in a perfect lunch out?

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Hawaiian Vanilla Company

Eric's parents were here on the Big Island to help us celebrate the big 3-0 this year and I knew I wanted to plan a special outing. I'd heard great things about The Hawaiian Vanilla Company, so I booked a reservation for their afternoon luncheon and tour.

Our afternoon began with a vanilla themed lunch. Iced tea and lemonade were generously laced with teeny tiny black specs of real vanilla seeds and served in mason jars for a homey touch.

Next up was a chicken sandwich with a vanilla seed bun, barbeque aioli made with cayenne, paprika, curry and you guessed it: vanilla! The chicken was incredibly tender and juicy and the homemade bread was still warm from the oven.

What dessert showcases real vanilla better than ice cream? It was topped with a delicious lilikoi sauce, and the tartness of the lilikoi flavor was in perfect contrast to the cool, creamy, sweetness of the ice cream. Can you see the vanilla seeds?

After lunch, we toured the farm to learn about the time consuming art of growing real vanilla. Vanilla comes from an orchid- the only orchid species in the world that produces a usable fruit. It takes four years for a plant to produce pods, and the process is slow and labor intensive. Each flower must be hand pollinated during a one week blooming season, which goes a long way towards explaining why real vanilla beans are so expensive. This plant is just a baby at only two years old. It will creep slowly up these poles and begin to create its first blooms in two more years.

Our tour was brief due to rain, but we enjoyed learning more about this exotic plant, first discovered by the Mayans and cultivated continuously ever since. (Chocolate AND Vanilla? Those guys had some precious knowledge, wouldn't you say?) It was a great way to celebrate Eric's birthday, (he has a secret fascination with spices and farms!) and if you are paying a visit to the Big Island of Hawaii, I would highly recommend this for an afternoon adventure in the rural mountain country of our island.

Have you ever tried a culinary tour before? I can't wait to do it again.

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Da Poke Shack, Number One for a Reason.

Da Poke Shack is Kona's Number One rated restaurant on Trip Advisor. Maybe that's why we waited so long to walk through the doors. It's like the Beatles, or Snuggies, or Harry Potter. It's so popular, you feel like you can't join in at this point without feeling dumb. That wagon is crowded enough without you.

And then when you do join, you wonder what the hell took you so long. Because the wagon is crowded for a reason. This is good stuff. And it would be a shame to miss it just because everyone else is busy enjoying it.

And so it is with Da Poke Shack. Poke is basically salad made with incredibly fresh raw fish, seaweed, salt and a variety of other seasonings. (If you dig sushi, you're gonna love it.) And these guys know their stuff. They are all fishermen and local guys who love super fresh seafood and know how it should be prepared: quickly, simply, with love and not a lot of fanfare.

We opted for the plate lunch, which anywhere else in Hawaii would mean mac salad (that's macaroni salad for the uninitiated. Overcooked macaroni slathered in mayonaise plopped onto your plate via ice cream scoop. Yuck.) rice and terriyaki chicken or pork. At Da Poke Shack, it means two choices of poke, salad (we chose seaweed) and seasoned rice.

Never tried poke before? Not sure which of the many bowls to choose from? No problem brah. The guys behind the counter lovingly dole out tastes via toothpick, describing what ingredients are in each dish and happily making suggestions. Don't be shy. Take them up on it- their friendly enthusiasm is part of what makes this little hole in the wall place so very special. It's number one for a reason.

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Bite Me Fish Market

Bite Me is one of our favorite places in all of Kona. It's tucked away in a far corner of the marina and would be easy to miss. They've made the most of what could have been a dismal location (right next to the shipyard) with an outdoor seating area that emphasizes the view of the charter fishing boats bobbing at the docks and cheery red picnic tables and umbrellas. (If you don't get seasick, deep sea fishing could be a wonderful outing on your visit to Kona. I highly recommend our charming friend Bobby of the Cherry Pit as captain for your trip.)

What makes Bite Me so special is that their seafood is freshly caught that very same day. Their location at the Marina means they get first pick, and you can taste the difference. Eric says that he never really loved seafood until we came to Hawaii, and it makes perfect sense. Fish hat has been frozen for months and ruthlessly over cooked is rubbery and tastes unpleasantly fishy. Something straight from the sea smells like the sea- salty, sweet and faintly green.

Our favorite dish at Bite Me are the $2 fish tacos. They are an amazing bargain and can be ordered ala cart. Two is plenty. Flour tortillas, the fresh catch of the day (the friendly wait staff are happy to rattle off the list for you) seared and crumbled in the bottom, plus cheddar, cabbage, spiced sour cream and home made salsa make these worth stopping for. Wash them down with a local beer from Kona Brewing Company. (I like the Wailua Wheat.)

Editors Note: Since starting this series, I've realized that most of our favorite restaurants are low brow. I've been sadly disappointed with fine dining on Big Island. The quality, price and ambiance just don't align. Eric and I have learned to cook in for special occasions instead. (It presents a really fun challenge actually!) Are your favorite restaurants high or low end?

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Ultimate Burger

Did you know that the largest cattle ranch in the United States is located in Hawaii? Thousands of head of cattle are raised right here on the mountains of The Big Island. But even though these cows start out eating fresh green grass and roaming hills with premium ocean views, more than 90% of these animals are shipped to the mainland to be fattened on feedlot corn before their final trip to the slaughterhouse. It's a shame given the premium price free-range, grass-fed beef commands, (and the way animals are treated in these lots. Did you see Food Inc.?) but this island doesn't have the proper meat processing facilities, and the local market is not yet large enough to support the industry.

Ultimate Burger may be the restaurant to help change that. This local burger joint serves up 100% locally raised, grass-fed beef. You can definitely taste the difference in the freshness of the meat. The texture is crumbly and tender- not tough and greasy like other fast food burgers. These burgers taste like red meat should taste- irony, rich, but also clean and healthy.

You can choose from a wide array of toppings for your burger; from bleu cheese crumbles to caramelized onions and pineapple slices, something will definitely hit the spot. And of course, such a beautiful burger needs a worthy bun. These are buttery, freshly baked and lightly toasted to really bring out the best in all the ingredients.

The fries are the real reason I keep going back however. Local potatoes are cut into superfine shoestrings, fried into the perfect marriage between crisp and squishy and then laced with generous sprinklings of fresh thyme, pepper, garlic and salt. They are served with an aioli dipping sauce (sour cream and cayenne pepper is my guess) that is totally decadent. I've found myself ordering fries and some of their perfectly tart, never overly sweet lemonade and nothing else on more than one occasion. (Ask for their punch card- after 10 orders of fries you get one free! If you're just visiting, start one anyway and send it my way. I guarantee it won't go to waste.)

What's the best burger joint in your neighborhood? What makes it so delicious?

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii: Pat'z Pies

Everywhere you go somebody is claiming they have the best pizza. Which is great, because in the immortal words of Jeremy Grey (better known as Vince Vaughn, playing himself, just like we like it) in Wedding Crashers; "It's pizza, baby, it's always good." Truer words are rarely spoken.

The problem arises when classifying pizza as great, because everyone has their own criteria, as individualized, subjective and vexing a problem as selecting the perfect bra. Sometimes it's as simple as thin crust. Sometimes it's a complex theorem on the spicy to sweet ratios in the tomato sauce. I won't insult you by claiming that Pat'z Pies in Kealakekua, Hawaii are the best pizzas on earth. But I'll tell you why I love them so very much, to convince you to stop when you visit our Big Island.

You pull off the highway (ambiance is not the reason one stops at Pat'z.) park in the line up and place your order at the window. Here is where you get your first taste of why Pat'z is so special. It's Pat himself. Never have you seen a man so happy to help you order a slice, or so proud of his skill in the kitchen. He can't wait to expound on the virtues of his pies, tell you about toppings or share a great surf spot a few miles down the way. And he'll probably talk you in to a freshly fried malasada (Portuguese doughnut) on your way out. He's just as friendly and genuine with his local regulars as he is with visitors.

At last, your slice arrives, fresh from the oven. First of all, it has a wheat flour crust, which could spell a tough, chewy disaster. Instead, it's a little nutty thanks to all those whole grains and light, fluffy, crisp thanks to the perfectly hand tossed dough. Then, there are the toppings- an amazing array to choose from, many locally grown. Our slices had spinach, olives, pesto, peppers, garlic and two kinds of delicious cheese. It's hot, fresh, loaded and made with so much love and joy, you can't help but taste it.

What makes for delicious pizza in your book?

Photo Journal: Cool Fusion 2011 at Donkey Mill Center for the Arts in Holualoa, Hawaii

Cool Fusion is the annual fundraiser for Donkey Mill Art Center's ceramics department. Volunteers throw, fire, glaze and fire again more than 1,000 bowls. More volunteers prepare a beautiful lunch of saimen to fill those bowls. Saimen is a simple dish of cold japanese noodles served with a variety of vegetables, fish cake, fresh ginger, wasabi to taste and a delicious broth. It is cold and refreshing on a hot Hawaiian afternoon. This little Art Center is housed in a former coffee mill and is suffused with a powerful sense of people coming together. I've never seen a community center where people were so excited to pitch in. I feel so blessed to observe how the staff and volunteers infuse the place with Aloha in the truest sense. I think you can even feel it in these photos.










You can see more photos from this beautiful day here.

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island: The Coffee Shack

The Coffee Shack is one of those places that no visit to the Big Island is complete without. Every guest we've had ends up having at least one meal here. The Coffee Shack is a bit outside of Kona, but it's right on the way to Honaunau and Kealakekua, gorgeous places you'll want to visit and snorkel anyway. They do all their own baking on premesis, including several varieties of incredible breads, a selection of decadent pies and cheesecakes and muffins.

It's directly off the highway and parking can be an issue. Make sure you don't park in front of the neighbors' gate- it's a sure way to get towed. My four criteria for Big Island Restaurants are food quality, ambiance, service and value. This place gets four stars no question.

The food quality here is wonderful. Everything is made with care and attention to detail and you can taste it. They use local sources whenever possible. Eric and I love to split their Eggs Benedict- it's plenty for two small folks like us! The holindaise is sublime- light, airy and with a lemony twang all poured over the most lovingly poached eggs you've ever tasted. They often do a version with a fresh catch of the day and you can't beat the flavor and texture of fish straight from the ocean and on to your plate.

When my Mom visited, I took her down to Honaunau for a bit of snorkeling and dolphin watching and we stopped off for lunch afterwards. I had a delightful Ham and Turkey sandwich (halfway gone before I remembered to snap a pic for y'all!) That freshly baked bread MADE the thing.

Mum had the Papaya Special. I used to think I didn't care for papaya, and then I moved to Hawaii. I had just never had one properly ripened. This one is topped with lime, yogurt and toasted coconut. Heaven.

This place also gets a star for ambiance. Though humble from the outside, (it's not called "Shack" for nothing!) the view is spectacular- every seat comes with a sparkling blue view of Kealakekua bay and acres of world famous Kona Coffee plantations. There is also a breathtakingly tall Haas Avacado tree- Eric and I always speculate on how they manage to harvest it's perfect dark green fruits from so far below. We can't really imagine it but it's too awful to think all those perfect avocados go to waste.

The staff also leave little tins of jam out for the ubiquitous Day Geckos to feast on. It certainly makes a good photo op, even though these fellows are non-native species. You'll have plenty of opportunities to make insurance salesman jokes.

The Coffee Shack earns another star for service. There are no world wearied waitresses here. Each member of the staff brings kindness and enthusiasm to her work- something you don't see much in downtown Kona. I always enjoy their attentive and genuine service.

And of course, all of those stars add up to another star for value. This is one place I never hesitate to send my guests to visit, and the only one I'll beg for a chance to tag along!

What is your favorite restaurant in your neck of the woods?

Eat Like a Local on the Big Island: The Strawberry Patch

I get so many nice emails from all of you asking where we locals go on the Big Island of Hawaii, so I thought I'd start sharing my favorite restaurants. I want to make sure none of you come visiting and end up paying $15 for a mediocre hamburger. (That's the opposite of Aloha!) Added bonus? I get an excuse to try every place in town.

So, in that spirit, I present my new series "Eat Like a Local on the Big Island of Hawaii!" My four criteria are food quality, ambiance, service and value. I thought I'd kick things off with a charming new bistro called The Strawberry Patch.

This sister owned restaurant is outside of Kona on the way to Kealakekua Bay (perfect since you'll want to go snorkeling with dolphins there!) It's located in a charming little building surrounded by coffee farms with a patio that (unfortunately) faces a busy road. (My tap dance class meets at The Dancing Tree right next door too!) They have done a great job cheering it up with a plethora of potted plants, succulents, urns and beautiful cloches. There are also lots of herbs and while we were there, the cook came out to snip some fresh basil for our lunch orders!

Eric had the Margareta pizza which he deemed light, crisp and delicious.

I had the Picasso Panini. It was fresh and clean tasting and the red peppers were the perfect accompaniment to the pesto and turkey. (And I'm always a sucker for potato chips and a nice pickle spear!)

I also loved the country touch of iced tea served in jelly jar glasses and wildflower arrangements in a collection of vintage milk glass containers. All told, I think the Strawberry Patch deserves 3.5 stars. It has wonderful food, thoughtful, friendly service, great value and aside from the busy highway zooming past the outdoor seating, charming ambiance as well. I definitely recommend it when you visit the Big Island!

Have you tried any great new restaurants lately?