Visiting Vienna: Bretzel Gwolb for Pretzels, Beer & Eierschwammerl

Just around the corner from our Vienna apartment was another Rick Steves recommendation: The Bretzel Gwolb which he describes as "Tolkeinesque". Since Eric & I are more than a little Hobbit like, (short of stature, lovers of life, books and good eating) we took this as a sign and spent a few afternoons sipping beers here.

Though they seemed oddly reluctant to bring us pretzels, when they did arrive they were wonderful. Hot, chewy and covered with nice coarse salt.

We also tried Eierschwammerl, (we call them chanterelles) which have a very short season and were featured all over town while we were there. I'm not usually a mushroom lover, but I am beginning to suspect I just haven't had many good mushrooms in my life. These were light, woody and perfectly paired with a creamy butter wine sauce, endives and sauteed potatoes.

Le menu du jour was cheerfully chalked up on their green shutters. The homey picnic tables and benches were painted a matching shade of forest green. Window boxes overflowing with herbs made the tiny cobbled courtyard feel like a secret garden. We spent a colder evening in the candle lit interior which feels like a cellar decked out with rustic wraught iron chandeliers, worn wooden tables and red velvet upholstery. Very atmospheric indeed.

What is your favorite restaurant experience abroad?

Visiting Vienna: Tresniewski's How To

Here's how to visit the famous Trzesniewski cafe in Vienna. (Their slogan translates to "unpronounceably good." It's right on the money.)

Go in for a snack around 4 or 5. Select tiny open face sandwiches from the wide variety a the cafeteria style counter. Get a teeny tiny beer to wash it down with. Eric got smoked bacon and egg, mine was sweet pickle relish, a hardboiled egg and lots of paprika.

Find a table inside or stand at the high top tables outside if you've got your dog along. Set to work.

Laugh about your day. Munch. Chit chat. People watch. Relax.

Your work here is done.

Visiting Vienna: An Afternoon at the Opera

I want to be the sort of person who loves theater in general and opera in particular, but I have to confess that both leave me cold. Theater going experiences are so variable- sometimes wonderful, but oftentimes I feel lukewarm about the performances, costumes, singing, plot or all of the above. And it's invariably an expensive proposition going to the theater, while comparatively (and in more ways than one), most movies are cheap.

I'd been to see three operas before- all in Eric's company and all in German. I slept through one, but I blame extreme jet lag and no subtitles. In Vienna, I couldn't wait to give it another go since it's The Opera Capital of the World.

Due to a minor ticketing snafu and one very kind box office agent, we ended up sitting in a box for an afternoon performance of Strauss's Die Fledermaus at The Volkstheater for around $17 USD. I felt so queenly walking into that sumptuous little box all done up in thickly padded red velvet chairs, red damask wall paper and pretty crystal light fixtures. (And glad I decided to dress up for a matinee!)

The audience was mostly school children, which surprised us given the sexual innuendo in this opera. However, the objective seemed to be exposing children to a high culture experience rather than getting them to understand the intricacies of plot and double entendres. Even though the wiggled and whispered through the performance, most of these kids will grow up to be Vienese people who can't get enough Opera. In fact, as adults, they will spend summer evenings down at the Rathaus eating Indian curries or Thai noodles on porcelain plates with a big glass of wine or beer on a folding chair, raptly watching opera on a vast outdoor screen. That's what tradition and culture mean to Vienna and it was lovely to see the adults helping to facilitate this life long love affair with culture for their students.

The subtitles and wonderful acting made it easy to follow this Opera which certainly adds enjoyment. The farce kept building to a chaotic and climactic final scene that made us laugh out loud. I may have to give theater a second chance. Have you ever been to an Opera? What did you love? What did you hate?

Visiting Vienna: An Island Picnic & Summer Fair

Vienna sits right along the Blue Danube (though it's really more a muddy grey color) and in the middle is an island formed by a canal. We decided it would be a nice spot for a picnic.

I made a little trio of pretty salami & cheese sandwhiches, piled the plate high with nectarines and cherries and brought along a little blanket. The weather here this summer has been quite unpredictable this summer and when it started drizzling we decided to pack up and stroll towards the other end. (The island is skinny, but quite long!)

We stumbled upon some sort of summer festival- there were all sorts of booths, radio stations, puppet shows, a woodworker, and of course, an Airstream selling crepes! I don't need to remind you how I've fantasized about this sort of thing. Can you imagine roaming the countryside in your crepe mobile, sharing the joys of Nutella with everyone you meet? Delightful.

This lady was selling "Lebkuchen" which Eric tells me means "Life Cakes". It's gingerbread decorated with little love notes and strung onto ribbons so you can hang them as decoration or gobble them up.

I also quite liked how this pretzel man had managed to match his tablecloth, napkins and shirt! Very dapper indeed. Gingham seems just right for the humble pretzel, wouldn't you agree?

Have you been on any picnics this summer? What about street fairs? I love the fluff of bright pink cotton candy or an icy snow cone on a hot summer day.

Visiting Vienna: Cafe Orlando di Castello

One of my favorite food stops in Vienna so far has been Orlando di Castello. This charming little cafe is just two blocks from our apartment.

Aren't their lacy cafe chairs pretty? They remind me of elaborate calligraphy on a fancy wedding invitation.
I think Eggs Benedict is one of my all time favorite dishes. I really must learn how to poach an egg so I can make it at home. This one was perfectly made with a light herb Hollandaise sauce, salty ham and a toasty roll.

I am falling madly in love with Viennese cafe culture- people bring a stack of magazines and books with them, order a coffee (which always comes perfectly made with a tiny glass of water) and while away the afternoon catching up on news and fashion. The waiter never brings the bill until you ask and you can sit for hours. (I start to feel antsy after only an hour or two, in the States I always feel like I need to buy something every few hours if I'm camping out like that.)

This article (which sports far better photographs of the uber hip cafe interior) informs me that the design was inspired by "50 Cent, Queen Victoria and a girl from Tyroll". My thoughts exactly. (Ha!)

These total experiences are what I miss most about an urban lifestyle when we are back in rural Hawaii. Here there is attention paid to food, service, and the atmosphere you are enjoying which elevates the experience and creates additional value. Sometimes these hip places can feel cold and intimidating, but the staff here was so welcoming and friendly that spending the whole morning was blissful.

Are there chic but friendly places to eat where you live? Which is your favorite?

Packing List for Six Weeks in Europe in a Carry on!

Do you enjoy packing for vacation? No surprise, I adore it. Packing for a trip helps me visualize myself in that place. I imagine what I'll be doing (Sipping cappuccino? Strolling through Pompeii? Taking a scooter ride along the sea?) and then what I'd like to be wearing while doing it. I like to try to blend with the locals too, and in Europe that means looking a little more polished than usual.

For this trip across Europe, we have many stops and flights, so I decided to pack in a carry on. I've used a backpack for long trips before but they don't jive with the way I travel. A small rolling suitcase is better for me for so many reasons- you have easier to access when packing horizontally instead of vertically and I'd rather wheel something behind me (like a chic air hostess!) than haul it on my hunched over back (like a peasant woman taking potatoes to market).

My inspiration for accomplishing this feat was Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. For most of the film, she's wearing only the clothes on her back the day she runs off. It's a simple cotton blouse, a circle skirt, a tiny scarf, a pair of kitten heels and one great haircut. Watch the movie again and note all the ways she changes it up.

Image from Thoughts on Film

In her biography, someone on the set of that film said she did the same thing in real life- with only three simple pieces, she could make a thousand different looks. Scarf on head, scarf round neck, scarf tossed over shoulders, scarf as belt. (Lesson learned. Scarves are your secret weapon!) Shirt tied at waist, tucked in, sleeves rolled up, collar down, collar flipped and so on and so forth. (Who knows what one can really do to a skirt or pants?)

If she could do it, so could I. (Okay, not in three pieces, but baby steps!) I packed items that don't rumple or wrinkle easily and could serve dual purposes. They also had to be easy to wash and hang in a hotel sink if need be. (I find chiffon & microfibers are the best for this!)

Here is my packing list for this trip:

Tops: One striped shirt (It's Europe after all!), Coral Pink Cardigan, Floral Print Cardigan (don't you miss Isaac Mizrahi for Target?) Blue, Pink & Black Tank top (for overtime as workout gear, pjs & layering pieces!)
Bottoms: Skinny Blue Jeans, Khaki Skirt

Dresses: Denim sheath dress- can double as skirt, Black & White polka dot chiffon dress- can double as a top if you are really determined to stuff it into jeans!


Accessories: Assorted Baubles, Black & White Skinny Belts, Red & Blush silk flower pins, Rainbow Striped, Floral Print and Blue Ombre Silk Scarves

Shoes: Black Ballet Flats, Black Heels, White Sandals, The Requisite-But-Irredeemably-Ugly-Tennis-Shoes-That-Immediately-Brand-You-"Tourist!" I'm glad I had them, especially on our day trip to Bratislava.

Misc: 2 pairs yoga shorts for Bikram class (doubling as pjs), 2 pairs sports bras, 1 swimsuit (as yet, only item remaining unused!), bras & undies & pretty camisole romper pjs Not pictured: 1 hot yoga towel, toiletries, Foldable tote bag, Fancy Camera, Passport

Things I wish I'd brought:

Pair of sweatpants for lounging around in after a long day of hoofing it from sight to sight. A jacket was a major oversight- my white denim jacket would have been ideal, but a blazer would have worked too. The girls here are all wearing theirs a bit over-sized with the sleeves rolled up nonchalantly. I love it. A sun hat was especially missed in Rome.

One Blonde Girl mentioned that a carry on leaves me no room for acquisitions. Never fear! This light list actually left me a bit of wiggle room in my luggage and some books I've ditched along the way also cleared out space. I'll share my purchases in another post.

What are your go to pieces when you travel?

Visiting Vienna: Setting the Scene

Vienna is strikingly beautiful. There are architectural details like arched window frames, baroque statuary, giant limestone blocks and pillars and matching topiary at entrances to cafes that create a tidy and dignified elegance. The quaint touches haven't been overlooked either- horse drawn carriages for sightseers clip clop across the uneven grey cobblestones and the rooftops are covered with rounded glazed tile or faded wooden shingles.

I'm ashamed to admit that I didn't know much about Vienna or Austrian culture beyond The Sound of Music and Mozart. I wasn't sure what there was to see or do here. Now that we've already been here almost two weeks, I'm so glad we had an entire month to spend enjoying this lovely place. There are so many treasures of history, culture, art and music here-I've enjoyed doing it slowly and savoring each moment. I will do my best to share it so that you can also linger over this wonderful place whether you are near or far.

Visiting Vienna: Our Flat!

First order of business on arrival in Vienna? Laundry. (Did I mention we each packed nothing but a carry-on for this six week adventure?)

Second order of business? Removing the terrifying artwork (The bosoms, primary colors AND cubism were a bit much for me.) for safekeeping under the Murphy bed.

We have yet to fold it up, but I think we may have some friends over for dinner, in which case we'll definitely need the room! Note the twin duvets on the queen sized bed. An interesting European phenomenon which has it's logic- no one can steal the covers and leave the other shivering in the night- but makes for a funny looking made bed.



It's a tiny place, but we have a great location with much of the landmarks in this very walkable city only a few blocks away. (Thanks as always to that talented Eric!) I've enjoyed living in such a tiny space- cleaning up is a cinch and everything is easy to find. I also like the Goldilocks sensation of just right- not too much, not too little.

However, I think this is a trade off I'd only be willing to make if I had a city at my disposal for those times when I start to feel a bit stir crazy. No doubt this is how Viennese cafe culture got it's start- they really do feel like communal living rooms but with a pastry case and those wooden library holders on the newspapers. I'd also do it in exchange for life at sea or on the open road. But in rural Hawaii? I think I need just a tad more space- if only for parties! We'll see how things shake out when we return to our island.

Have you ever lived in a tiny studio? What were the pluses in your mind? The minuses?

Roman Holiday: Trevi Fountain & the Galleria Borghese

Do you remember this fountain from the famous scene in La Dolce Vita where the American actress wades right in?

Well apparently, so do all these people. The horde was in full swing at Trevi Fountain. It was literally shoulder to shoulder.

We only stayed long enough to toss a coin to guarantee that we'd return to Rome again- preferably on some less crowded day.


Then we visited the Pantheon and enjoyed icy coffee granitas oozing with whipped cream (as described to Emelie & Brandon by an enthusiastic Italian Lady on the plane, and confirmed by Mr. Rick Steves) and listened to dueling street musicians. Despite the crowds, it really was a marvelous day, the most relaxed and pleasant of our time in Rome.

That morning, We squeezed in a trip to the Galleria Borghese, which was definitely my favorite museum experience in Rome. Because they have a strict limit for visitors, it was calm and quiet, perfect for evoking the contemplative mood you need to experience art. It was also a relief to see the artworks in the context they were created for- so much of Rome is in ruins and it's hard to imagine what it might have looked like with only the crumbling marble to help your mental image. This stunning collection all appears in meticulous order and there were some incredible works by Bernini, who really was a master in many mediums. His unity of vision has shaped the look of Rome in thousands of ways.

Have you visited Rome? What were your favorite sites? I think we could've stayed for years and not seen it all!

Roman Holiday: The Vatican & Saint Peter's Basilica

The Vatican. Home to the greatest collection of Renaissance art in the western world. Spiritual Home of the Roman Catholic Empire. Home Sweet Home to the Pope. Host to ten thousand visitors every single day.

A girl in the ticket line next to us literally passed out from heat exhaustion and her family pressed her to get up and go on. This was not about having an enjoyable museum going experience. It was more pilgrimage meets marathon. How long can you wait in the sweltering sun for tickets? How much art and history can you soak in while being pressed on all sides by other exhausted, hot, sweaty, grumpy pilgrims? How many other heads can you crop out of your photos to make it appear as though you were not one with the horde? No, this was about saying, "I've been there."


Eric had a poster of this painting hanging above his bathtub when we were in high school. It's one of his all time favorites. That fellow in the orange boots? Michelangelo himself. (Eric says he never took them off. Not even to sleep. Can you imagine the stench?)

The Sistine Chapel was really a thrill- despite the hoards who brazenly ignored the "no photos" and "silence please" signs, I was moved to see such an iconic work in person. I could almost see him up there, cursing and grumbling, while he turned out the Renaissance's most famous masterpiece. Though the room was crowded and noisy, my heart swelled up with joy at the sight of it. It made the whole trip worth while.

The light in Saint Peters' was quite beautiful. Aren't these scattering rays of light exactly what you imagine when you think of the clouds parting to reveal a heavenly choir locked in harmony? Creating sacred spaces with light was a particular specialty of Bernini, and I enjoyed each glittering beam.

This is what utter exhaustion looks like. Just hold me pillar.


We revived ourselves with what else? Happy Hour!

This is what Roman happy hour looks like- a buffet of free appetizers with your 5:00 cocktail. That delightful little round puff pastry was filled with an olive tapenade or tuna salad. Yum.

Thanks to the aforementioned exhaustion we sat at this bar for several hours and drank our dinners. Have you ever been to the Vatican? What did you think? Were you moved? What was your favorite part of the experience?